There are mountains that become experiences, and climbs that turn into stories worth sharing.
The Weissmies (4,017 m), with its long and elegant North Ridge, is one of them.
In this article, mountaineer Giulia Fusconi takes us along one of the most captivating lines in the Valais Alps: a route defined by effort, beauty, and unforgettable moments suspended between sky and ice.
"Starting from Saas Grund and looking up at the 4,017 meters of the Weissmies is already an invitation to dream. Our journey begins early: from the village we ascend without lifts to the Hohsaas hut, gaining about 1,600 meters of positive elevation. The first day of approach is long and intense, but illuminated by the promise of the ridge that awaits us.
At 4 a.m., with the light of our headlamps and short breaths in the thin air, we head toward Lagginjoch. From here, the North Ridge unfolds: two kilometers of airy, elegant, and continuous line, combining technical rigor with the pure beauty of the mountain.
Then comes the moment I will never forget: the sun exploding behind the peaks, painting the sky with fire. One of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever seen, and there I was, right on the ridge, living it fully."
"By 9 a.m. we reached the summit, suspended between sky and glaciers. A brief moment, but incredibly powerful: one breath, a long gaze, and the awareness that yes, it had been a truly memorable day.
The descent was fast: by 10:45 we were back at the hut, by 1 p.m. in the car, still with the images of the ridge vivid in our minds.
My Stellar shoes proved to be the right companions, extremely comfortable and high-performing."
At 4,017 meters, Weissmies is the highest peak of the massif that bears its name.
Its name, in the Valais dialect, means “white moss,” a direct reference to the perpetually snow-covered summit. Seen from Saas-Fee, its cap resembles the head of a great white whale, earning it the nickname “Moby Dick of the Alps.”
Although considered one of the more accessible four-thousanders, Weissmies remains a severe and demanding mountain: crevasses, seracs, and unstable weather always require experience and respect. Its most spectacular line remains the North Ridge, two kilometers of elegance suspended between rock and ice.
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